Kaptin Gron, Kommando Nob

I klawed my way to da top, hurr-hurr-hurr!

– Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob

Next from the Octarius Kommando Kill Team Orks we have Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob. This is a fantastic sculpt and originally I was going to leave it untouched. However I have been mulling over the idea of attempting to create an “crackling electrical surface discharge” effects with LEDs on a power fist or power klaw, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give it a whirl! I did also consider making the backpack radar dish rotate, but in the end decided that would be a little too much effort!

Painting & Assembling

So how did I make the crackling electrical discharge effect on the power klaw?

  1. I drilled through the model’s leg, torso and arm to add three Blue Ultra Nano SMD Chip LED (3V) from the website Small Scale Lights. They are all connected in parallel with a 3V coin cell battery, 10Ω resistor and switch in the base. For more information on hiding batteries in miniature bases, see my LED Eye Lens tutorial.
  2. Next I applied Water Splash Effect Gel, available from Green Stuff World, to begin creating the path of the electrical “arc”.
  3. Once the initial application of gel has dried – which may take several hours – I applied the next layer, increasing the length of the “arcs”.
  1. I continued to apply layers of gel until I was happy with the shape of the “arcs”. As you can see, I joined them up to make it look like the electricity was arcing between different points on the power klaw.
  2. Once the final layer of gel was dry, I applied a thin layer of Citadel Guilliman Blue glaze, just to make the electrical effect look a little more interesting when the LEDs are switched off. Unfortunately this colour is discontinued now, but a thinned-down coat of Citadel Contrast Talassar Blue would have the same effect.
  3. Jobs a good ‘un, boss!

I’m not sure if the crackling electrical discharge effect I was picturing in my head has fully translated to the model, but it was a fun experiment anyway! In terms of painting, I stuck to the retro-inspiring Blood Axe Kommando scheme I mentioned in my previous post. Even though Kaptain Gron is the leader of the team I still stuck to the limited colour palette. I think this helps to give the whole unit a more cohesive look on the tabletop.

That’s it for this week. More Octarius Orks soon, plus some more Badab campaign, Armies on Parade revisited and something a bit different! See you all again soon.

Gron’s Kommando Kill Team – Part 1

Az killy az a sack of Catachan Face Eaters, and twice az hard to catch!

Warboss Grimzod on Gron’s Kommandos.

For the past few weeks I’ve been working on the Ork Kommandos that came in the Kill Team Octarius boxed set. I’ve taken a narrative approach to this project and decided to base the team members on the characters in my Ork Kommando short story The Dark Stabba. Now I’m halfway through the ten Ork team this seems like a good time for a blog post!

Bomb Squig

The first model I tackled was the Bomb Squig, just because it’s such a cool miniature! I wanted to give the impression of burning fuses on the dynamite, just like in the Kill Team cinematic trailer. To achieve this I used the materials and techniques detailed in my LED Nighthaunt Candle tutorial to creating the fuses, only this time I used yellow glaze rather than green.

Snatchit, Kommando Grot

As soon as I saw the Grot I knew I had to give him proper glowing infrared goggles! I used two 3V Red Ultra Nano SMD Chip LEDs available from Small Scale Lights. The LEDs are wired in parallel with each other, then in series with their supplied 100Ω resistor. Rather than recast the head in resin as I often do for LED eyes, in this case I decided to drill out the eyes and fill in the lenses with the ubiquitous Splash Gel. This was mainly because I thought the very fine details of the tiny head might loose a bit too much definition during the recasting process.

Snikbad, Slasha Boy

There are no LEDs on the Slasha Boy, but it didn’t need any. The colour scheme is based on the classic Blood Axe Kommando colour scheme, as seen in my Kommando ‘proof of concept’ model post. As with all non-LED models in LED units, I’ve raised the top of his base slightly with modelling putty, as though there were a battery holder in the base. This is so he doesn’t look shorter than his comrades!

‘Eadrekka, Kommando Boy

This Kommando Boy uses my brand new technique for producing simple LED muzzle flares. Check out my new Simple LED Muzzle Flare tutorial if you’d like a full step-by-step guide.

Dakkagor, Dakka Boy

The Dakka Boy uses the same new Simple LED Muzzle Flare tutorial that I referenced above, except that I used three LEDs of the same type instead of one! The three LEDs all share the same connections and the same battery. The three LEDs are wired in parallel with each other, but then still in series with the resistor, battery and switch.

That’s it for this week, I hope you’ve all found that interesting. I’m really enjoying painting the rag-tag Orks as a nice change of pace from neat power armour. Hopefully I’ll be back again soon with Gron’s Kommando Kill Team – Part 2!

Lamenters Kill Team Lugeo

The strong are strongest in the kill zone.

Sergeant Lugeo

So, almost two years after starting this Badab Kill Team project, how are things looking for Kill Team Lugeo? Quite good I think! I had originally planned seven members for the squad, and the seventh is already on the workbench. But I’d like to see the upcoming new Kill Team rules and find out exactly how many models are in an Adeptus Astartes fire team and what specialists they can have before finalising the squad. Once I’ve read and understood the new rules, I might even get a game in with them!

If you’d like to read any of the previous articles about individual members of the Kill Team and how their LED effects were made, you can either search my blog for articles tagged “Lamenters” or click the links below.

Brother Haemis | Brother Ardito | Brother Salvio

Sgt. Lugeo | Brother Quartus | Brother Achillus

That’s all for this week. See you again soon, and best of luck to anyone trying to pre-order the new edition of Kill Team this weekend!

Lamenter Comms Specialist

Enemy contacts are inside the perimeter. Unfortunately for them, so are we.

– Brother Ardito, Comms Specialist

Another Lamenter joins my long running Badab War era Kill Team. Brother Ardito is a Comms Specialist, so let’s hope that’s still an option for Adeptus Astartes Kill Teams in the new edition of the game!

Influence

For this model I was strongly influenced by the classic metal sergeant from the old Space Marine command squad box (sorry, this was the best reference image I could find). I didn’t set out to copy it exactly, just to capture the general energy and atmosphere of the model. Brother Ardito is made from the ‘Easy to Build’ Primaris Marine with auspex, although as you can see he’s been heavily altered to change the pose, details and make it appear that he’s wearing MkVII power armour, in keeping with the Badab-era setting.

Effects

The LED effects were achieved using the principles set out in my LED Hololith tutorial, although instead of a wrist-mounted hololith, the LED is mounted in the auspex screen. The LED is a 3V Red Ultra Nano SMD Chip LEDs available from Small Scale Lights, in series with the supplied 100Ω resistor. Although green is often traditional for scanner screens, I decided to go with red to match many of the other LEDs in the team and avoid having a mixture of too many colours.

The wire to the LED runs through the arm, torso and leg to the battery and switch in the base. A more detailed description can be found in my LED Hololith tutorial, as mentioned above. If you want to have a go yourself and you need tools and supplies, you can find them here.

First I painted the auspex screen Citadel Khorne Red, trying my best not to get any paint on the LED. Once the paint was dried I filled the screen area with the ever-useful Water Splash Effect Gel, available from Green Stuff World. This goes on white but is transparent when dried. You will need to apply it slowly and patiently, and use a flat tool to flatten it down. Otherwise you may have a lumpy screen!

Once the ‘screen’ was dry I painted it with two coats of Citadel Blood Angels Red Contrast, allowing the paint to dry between each application. Finally, I painted a pattern of ‘contacts’ on the ‘screen’ with Citadel Wild Rider red. This was more for visual interest when the LED is off as the LED is so bright it has little effect when it was on.

That’s all for today, I hope you found that interesting. Come back soon for more Lamenter action as the Kill Team slowly comes together!

Ork Kommando ‘Proof of Concept’

He’z about az sneaky az an axe to da face!

Common Ork Kommando compliment

Gripped by excitement for the upcoming Kill Team: Octarius box, I decided to build a “proof of concept” model from bits box spares. Firstly, I wanted to check I could still remember how to paint Ork skin, as it’s been a while! Secondly, I wanted to test out a “new” colour scheme. Thirdly, I wanted to see if there were any LED issues I hadn’t anticipated.

Building

As mentioned above, this model was constructed from spare Ork components I had in my bits box. The head is metal and from an old rokkit launcha boy, with a beanie hat sculpted from modelling putty. I used the techniques described in my LED Muzzle Flare tutorial to make the LED effect. The only new problem I encountered was the squat pose of the Ork legs – compared to straight Space Marine legs this was difficult to drill without making additional cuts. I ended up making a cut at the hip to make drilling easier, as you can see in the image on the left above. Otherwise it was as per the tutorial.

Painting

The Blood Axes are my favourite Ork clan, and I have a large army of them painted in military blues and greys. However for the new kommandos I wanted to try and replicate the classic red second edition 40K kommando look, as shown above. At first I thought I’d paint the red fatigues with grey areas of camouflage pattern on them, but I wasn’t positive I could pull that off without it looking confusing for the eye – that is the point of camouflage after all! So instead I decided to paint the webbing in grey rather than the brown leather colours I normally use. Although looking again at the image from the second edition 40K Ork codex above as I type this, I’m now wondering if I should have painted the stikkbomb sack on his back a brown leather colour rather than grey? Ah well, that’s why we need to make test models sometimes!

Overall I’m pleased with how this model turned out and am looking forward to applying these techniques to the new plastic Kommando Kill Team. That’s it for today, see you again soon!