Gripped by excitement for the upcoming Kill Team: Octarius box, I decided to build a “proof of concept” model from bits box spares. Firstly, I wanted to check I could still remember how to paint Ork skin, as it’s been a while! Secondly, I wanted to test out a “new” colour scheme. Thirdly, I wanted to see if there were any LED issues I hadn’t anticipated.
As mentioned above, this model was constructed from spare Ork components I had in my bits box. The head is metal and from an old rokkit launcha boy, with a beanie hat sculpted from modelling putty. I used the techniques described in my LED Muzzle Flare tutorial to make the LED effect. The only new problem I encountered was the squat pose of the Ork legs – compared to straight Space Marine legs this was difficult to drill without making additional cuts. I ended up making a cut at the hip to make drilling easier, as you can see in the image on the left above. Otherwise it was as per the tutorial.
The Blood Axes are my favourite Ork clan, and I have a large army of them painted in military blues and greys. However for the new kommandos I wanted to try and replicate the classic red second edition 40K kommando look, as shown above. At first I thought I’d paint the red fatigues with grey areas of camouflage pattern on them, but I wasn’t positive I could pull that off without it looking confusing for the eye – that is the point of camouflage after all! So instead I decided to paint the webbing in grey rather than the brown leather colours I normally use. Although looking again at the image from the second edition 40K Ork codex above as I type this, I’m now wondering if I should have painted the stikkbomb sack on his back a brown leather colour rather than grey? Ah well, that’s why we need to make test models sometimes!
Overall I’m pleased with how this model turned out and am looking forward to applying these techniques to the new plastic Kommando Kill Team. That’s it for today, see you again soon!
Debate the Tyrant’s cause if you like, but it’s hard to argue with 1200 rounds a minute.
Brother Salvio, Lamenter heavy weapons specialist
This is another model that has been living in my head as a nebulous idea for well over a year. In fact, I’d say my failure to settle on a way to execute this concept for my ‘Heavy’ specialist is why my seven-man Lamenters Kill Team project has currently been running for a year and a half! But now he’s done, so let’s have a big round of applause to welcome Brother Salvio!
There are a number of sources that I’m ‘riffing’ off with this member of the Kill Team, many of them from video games. The Team Fortress 2 Heavy is an obvious one, as are Halo Spartans carrying turrets (particularly Jorge-052) and even the Call of Duty Juggernaut. What is boils down to is a heavily armoured soldier carrying a large gun that you might normally expect to find on a vehicle! To help sell the theme of heavy armour, I decided on MkVIII ‘Errant’ armour for this marine, particularly as this has the enhanced face and neck protection seen in many of the characters linked above.
If you haven’t been following along with my Lamenters Kill Team project, then I should explain that it is intended to be Badab War era, so these are ‘true scale’ Marines rather than Primaris Marines. Every member of the team so far has been wearing armour appropriate to the era, which so far means MkVI, MkVII and MKVIII. So how did I go about turning MkX armour into MkVIII to match the reference images shown above?
Used modelling putty to increase the height of the neck gorget.
Selected up-armoured shoulder pads with elbow joint protection.
Replaced the skull on the chest with a jewel.
Filled in the detail on the wrist bracers to create a smoother armoured feel.
Removed the additional protection from the top of the MkX knee pads.
Left the MkX ankle joints intact – this was the first time I noticed MkVIII armour also uses them!
Replaced the Primaris backpack with a Tactical backpack.
I also added extra ammo pouches and grenades to enhance the impression of bulkiness.
That’s it for this week, I hope you found that interesting. Come back again soon to find out if I ever finish this bloody Lamenters Kill Team, haha! Hopefully I will be able to finish them soon, as it looks like we might possibly be in for a new edition of Kill Team.
This week I took a quick break from the Crimson Fists to make a bit more progress on my Seraphon with this Terradon Rider Alpha. The Seraphon were supposed to be my #NewYearNewArmy for 2021 but I haven’t got as far as I would have liked. Five months in and so far all I have to show for it besides this guy are the Skink Starpriest and the Saurus Oldblood! Still, it’s been a lot of fun to get this far at least.
I said from the beginning that I didn’t want to go overboard with LEDs in my Seraphon. That might be a bit hard to believe when they currently have a 100% rate of LED inclusion, but that’s because I’ve started with the fun stuff. I just had to include the LEDs for the sunfire bolas as I was fairly confident it would look awesome – and hopefully you’ll agree it does!
Once again I’ve used the same technique to create the flaming bolas as I used for the Nighthaunt Candles – this technique is just so versatile! The LEDs used are two ‘0805 Chip LED’ 3V yellow LED from Small Scale Lights connected in parallel on a single 3V CR2032 battery. I used the LED wires covered in modelling putty to form the leather straps of the bolas. The wires then run down through the Skink Alpha’s arm, body, leg and then into the Terradon. From there they run down the Terradon’s right leg, through the chain and the ball of meteoric stone, down through the tree and into the base to connect to the battery and the switch. You can see the path of the wire in the pictures below before the putty was applied to hide them.
You’ll notice that I replaced the default flying stand with a plastic tree from my bits box. There were two reasons for this – firstly I don’t really like the aesthetics of the clear plastic stands, and secondly clear plastic isn’t very good at concealing LED wires!
I decided to paint the acrylic splash gel flames just to make them look a bit nicer when the LED is switched off. Once the final layer of the gel was dry I applied a shade of Fuegan Orange to the top half of the flames, then a yellow glaze all over. You can see the ‘on’ and ‘off’ comparison pictures below.
As I’ve mentioned previously, the colour scheme for my Seraphon is heavily influenced by the 1993 Jurassic Park toy line, in this case specifically the Pteranodon. Whenever I record my painting recipes on this blog, it’s not so much to give out advice on what is a “good” colour scheme, but mainly as a reminder for myself! But I also think it’s nice to share in case anyone is interested how a particular colour was achieved. My updated Seraphon recipes are shown below. All paints referenced are Citadel paints.
Undercoat (all areas)
Grey Seer contrast undercoat
Bright Red Scales
Contrast Blood Angels Red
Wild Rider highlight
Fire Dragon Bright highlight
Dark Brown Scales / Jungle Bark
Contrast Cygor Brown
Doombull Brown highlight
Tuskgor Fur highlight
Contrast Gryph-Hound Orange
Fire Dragon Bright highlight
Pink Feathers / Tongues
Screamer Pink base
Nuln Oil shade
Pink Horror highlight
Cadian Fleshtone highlight
Black Claws / Leather Straps
Contrast Black Templar
‘Gold’ Weapons / Jewellery
Contrast Aggaros Dunes
Screaming Skull highlight
Averland Sunset base
Fuegan Orange shade
Yriel Yellow layer
Abaddon Black pupil
Wild Rider Red veins
Contrast Talassar Blue
Lothern Blue highlight
Human Skulls / Terradon Wings
Contrast Skeleton Horde
Ushabti Bone layer
Screaming Skull highlight
Contrast Skeleton Horde
Screaming Skull highlight
Contrast Basilicanum Grey
Contrast Militarum Green
Sand & PVA Glue (before undercoat)
Contrast Snakebite Leather
Zamesi Desert drybrush
Ushabti Bone drybrush
Steel Legion Drab rim
I’m really enjoying Contrast paints; they’re so quick to apply and give pretty good results! I’m particularly in love with Aggaros Dunes – combined with a Screaming Skull highlight it can really give a fast and passable NMM effect. I don’t think I’d use Contrast paints on the smooth surfaces of Space Marine armour, but for Seraphon and their scales they are ideal!
I don’t know exactly how many Orks I’ll slay during my service to the Emperor, but ‘all of them’ seems a worthy goal.
Captain Grimstone, Crimson Fists 4th Company
Meet Captain Grimstone of the Crimson Fists 4th Company, or at least the latest version of Captain Grimstone! This model is an update and replacement for my previous Primaris Captain. The LED in the plasma pistol on my old captain recently stopped working, most likely due to a dry solder joint or other loose connection. I could disassemble the model and repair it, but I thought it might be more fun to make an updated and slightly more personalised model for some of the narrative games that I hope to play soon now Covid restrictions are starting to ease.
Captain Grimstone uses parts from a number of different sources, but is mostly based on the limited edition Sergeant Jovan model. This kit has sat on my ‘Shelf of Shame’ for a couple of years now, so it feels good to put it to use. The power fist – most likely representing the relic ‘Fist of Vengeance’ in game – is made from a spare Pedro Kantor power fist. As you can see in the ‘work in progress’ images below, it took some careful cutting and gap filling to replace Jovan’s normal hand!
For the LED plasma pistol I used the techniques described in my LED Plasma Weapon tutorial. As you may be able to see in the picture above, the front half of the plasma pistol is cast resin and the back half is sculpted from scratch to hide the LED connections. The connecting wires then run through the hand, into the raised leg and down through the dead ork to the battery in the base.
With the defeated ork I wanted to give the impression that the greenskin had been killed with a head-shot from the plasma pistol, and the plasma flames were still consuming him, even as he lay on the ground. The ork skull is a hollowed out skull from the Citadel ‘Skulls’ plastic kit. The LED used in the skull is the same type as used in the plasma pistol and is connected in a parallel circuit with the same battery. The ‘plasma flame’ effects around the eyes and mouth were achieved with Water Splash Effect Gel, available from Green Stuff World, using the technique described in my Nighthaunt Candle tutorial.
That’s it for this week, I hope you all found it interesting. Next week the Crimson Fists 4th Company will be off on crusade, so I’ll be back soon with a look at a 50 Power narrative list!
This week I passed nine thousand followers on my LED miniature Instagram, so in honour of this milestone I thought I’d make a fun diorama using some of my favourite miniatures. I hope to take both the ‘Church of Cosmic Wisdom’ Genestealer Cult and the ‘Task Force Grimstone’ Crimson Fists out on Crusade soon, just as soon as UK lockdown restrictions allow. In the meantime, who do you think would win in a battle of psychic might? The All Father of the church or Epistolary Gabriel? Let me know in the comments!
This also seems like a good time to talk about future plans. There’s still a lot to come for the Crimson Fists; I have a Repulsor, a Firestrike turret, Aggressors, Assault Intercessors and the parts to make a new version of Captain Grimstone languishing on the ‘Shelf of Shame’. There’s also my Lamenters kill team to finish and my Seraphon to properly start! Plus it’s not only miniatures I’m working on, I’m also developing three brand new tutorials demonstrating new LED effects, as well as an upcoming 2021 revamp of my classic LED Eye Lens tutorial. And as if that wasn’t enough, I’ve also started to draw-up plans for my #ArmiesOnParade2021 board. It’s going to be a busy year, and I hope you all stick around to see the results!