He-Izswol, Saurus Oldblood

Celestite beats rock. Also skull.

He-Izswol, Saurus Warrior-Poet

My #NewYearNewArmy Seraphon project continues with another Leader for the army. This is He-izswol, a Saurus Oldblood wielding a Celestite Maul. I was trying to give the impression of a chunk of glowing celestial rock mounted on a haft and used as a brutal club! I’ve used the same colour scheme and limited palette detailed in my previous post about the Skink Starpriest.

Celestite Maul

Once again I’ve used the same technique to create the Celestite Maul as I used for the Nighthaunt Candles, although this time I built the splash effect gel up in successive layers to form the rock rather than a flame. The LED used is an ‘Ultra Nano’ 3V blue LED from Small Scale Lights. Once the final layer of the gel was dry I applied a thinned down blue shade and then a blue glaze, just to make it look a bit nicer when the LED is switched off. You can see on and off comparison pictures below.

I “cheated” slightly with the wiring on this one – as the legs are an awkward shape to drill through due to the switchback ankles, I passed the wire up through the dangling skull trophies instead (pictured above right). This was quite easy to do as the skull was only a few millimetres from the ruined temple base, so I just used putty to make the stones very slightly taller and hide the wire.

That’s all for this week. Check back again soon for more LED miniature fun!

Itchibitz, Skink Starpriest

In their wisdom the Old Ones gifted us with comets. Would you like a closer look, warm-blood?

Itchibitz, Skink Starpriest

Happy New Year everyone! This is my first post of 2021 and it’s time to talk about #NewYearNewArmy. I’ve been promising myself a Lizardman (or should that be “Seraphon”?) army for Warhammer Age of Sigmar for many years now. The beginning of a new year combined with my eternal quest to clear the Shelf of Shame seems like a good time to start! I’m planning the army to mainly be composed of Skinks and Dinosaurs. They will be setting out into the Tallowlands (my gaming group’s Age of Sigmar custom setting) in search of the missing saurus warrior Xali-Qhops (my character in our group’s re-skinned Age of Sigmar themed D&D campaign). You can read more about the Tallowlands setting for Age of Sigmar on our joint blog here. First to march forth from their temple-city will be Itchibitz, one of the Skink Starpriests leading the Seraphon on this sacred quest.

LED ‘Blazing Starlight’ Spell Effect

I’m going on record now and saying I don’t want to go too nuts with the LEDs in this army, although we’ll see how that sentiment holds up over the coming weeks! However I do want to include some LED weapon and spell effects to help my heroes stand out on the battlefield. In this case we have the Itchibitz conjuring the ‘Blazing Starlight’ spell.

The LED used is an ‘Ultra Nano’ 3V blue LED from Small Scale Lights, my favourite LED supplier. You can see the LED emerging from the left palm of the model in the ‘work in progress’ image above. The palm on the left hand of the standard Skink Starpriest miniature is facing down, but I cut the wrist between the two bracelets and rotated it through 180 degrees so it could be “holding” the spell effect.

The wiring for the LED in this miniature was achieved using the techniques explained in my LED Psyker Tutorial. The shape of the comet was produced using the same techniques as described for flames in my LED Nighthaunt Candles Short-Form Tutorial. I went for the twin-tailed comet as this is an important symbol of order in the Age of Sigmar, as well has being significant for the Seraphon (representing the forked tongue of Sotek) and also in the story of Xali-Qhops.

Colour Scheme

The planned colour scheme for my Seraphon is heavily influenced by the toy Jurassic Park Tyrannosaurus Rex from 1993. When I picture dinosaurs, this is one of the first colour schemes that spring to mind. I chose the rest of the colour palette for this model as analogous harmony colours with the red. Whenever I record my painting recipes on this blog, it’s not so much to give out advice on what is a “good” colour scheme, but mainly as a reminder for myself! But I also think it’s nice to share in case anyone is interested how a particular colour was achieved. The recipes are shown below. All paints referenced are Citadel paints.

  • Undercoat (all areas)
    • Grey Seer contrast undercoat
  • Bright Red Scales
    • Contrast Blood Angels Red
    • Wild Rider highlight
    • Fire Dragon Bright highlight
  • Dark Brown Back Scales
    • Rhinox Hide base
    • Agrax Earthshade shade
    • Doombull Brown highlight
    • Tuskgor Fur highlight
  • Orange Crest
    • Contrast Gryph-Hound Orange
    • Fire Dragon Bright highlight
  • Pink Feathers
    • Screamer Pink base
    • Nuln Oil shade
    • Pink Horror highlight
    • Cadian Fleshtone highlight
  • Black Claws / Leather Straps
    • Contrast Black Templar
  • ‘Gold’ Staff / Jewellery
    • Contrast Aggaros Dunes
    • Screaming Skull highlight
  • Yellow Eyes
    • Averland Sunset base
    • Fuegan Orange shade
    • Yriel Yellow layer
    • Abaddon Black pupil
    • Wild Rider Red veins
  • Human Skulls
    • Contrast Skeleton Horde
    • Ushabti Bone layer
    • Screaming Skull highlight
  • Ancient Stone
    • Contrast Skeleton Horde
    • Screaming Skull highlight
  • Base Texture
    • Sand & PVA Glue (before undercoat)
    • Contrast Snakebite Leather
    • Zamesi Desert drybrush
    • Ushabti Bone drybrush
    • Mordheim Tufts
    • Steel Legion Drab rim

That’s it for this week. More Seraphon to come over the next few weeks, as well as more Crimson Fists and Lamenters of course!

Nighthaunt Dreadwarden with LED Candles


A gentle tapping downstairs in the wee small hours,

A whisper in the empty room that’s never used,

A snapping twig behind you on the lonely road,

You are never truly alone in the Tallowlands.

These are the first finished models (unless you count Darrakar) for the small Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt force I’m putting together called “The Uncharnel”.


Who are The Uncharnel you ask? Legend tells they were a band of mercenaries who betrayed the Duardin of old. They paid a kin-traitor for knowledge of the secret tunnels and vaults deep below Hollow Mountain and sought to steal the heirloom treasure right out from under the Mountain Folk.

But a traitor’s tongue can be bought twice, and the mercenaries were betrayed. In their wrath, the Duardin collapsed the secret tunnels, burying the avaricious humans alive.

And there they remained for untold ages, as unquiet spirits consumed by greed and a hatred of the living, until the fateful day they were released by the Ghoul King of Hollow Mountain. But that’s a tale for another time…

LED Candles

When it came to LEDs in my Nighthaunt, I knew I didn’t want to have them in every model as I do with my Crimson Fists, mainly because it would be so time consuming! But that doesn’t mean I can’t have a few here and there; in lanterns and candles for example.

So how were the LED candles achieved? I’m not going to do a full tutorial, as most of the process is very similar to existing tutorials. For example, my LED Psykers tutorial covers the essentials of inserting a battery into a bases and running wires up miniature arms, so if you’re new to LEDs and want to give this a try then that is your best starting point. As for the candle flames themselves:

1. I used three 3V White Ultra Nano SMD Chip LEDs (note: ‘white’, not ‘warm white’) available from Small Scale Lights.  All three LEDs are connected in parallel to the same battery. The wires are wrapped around the candle holder. The arm was too thin to drill easily so I cut it out and replaced it with the wires, as shown in the picture below. The wires run down to the base along the back of the robes.


2. Next I built up the candles with modelling putty to hide the wires. I also rebuilt the arm around the wires using modelling putty, and re-sculpted part of the robes to hide the wires running down to the base.


3. Next I applied Water Splash Effect Gel, available from Green Stuff World, to build up a “flame” around the LEDs. You’ll need to apply it in several layers to build up a flame shape. The gel instructions recommend leaving it for 24 hours between applications to allow the previous layer to dry, but for this small amount I found 12 hours was sufficient.


4. Continue to build-up layers of splash effect gel until you are happy with the flame shape.


5. Once the final layer of splash gel has dried, coat each “flame” with Lahmian Medium as a basecoat, then apply two thick coats of Hexwraith Flame technical paint, waiting for each layer of paint to dry. The Hexwraith Flame acts as a filter, making the white light appear green. And yes I do mean thick coats, otherwise it won’t have any effect!


6. That’s all there is to it really. Just make sure you’re happy that the flames look green enough for your tastes when the LED is on. If not, apply as much Hexwraith Flame as required. Just make sure you don’t obscure the LED completely!



Just in case anyone is interested in the paint scheme I used, it’s closely based on the ‘Classic Style’ paint scheme shared for the Emerald Host in the December 2019 issue of White Dwarf. The ghostly ectoplasm is Grey Seer undercoat > 50:50 Hexwraith Flame:Lahmian Medium > thinned Ulthuan Grey > White Scar highlight.

With the bases, I wanted to give the impression of the ghosts being deep underground, perhaps in a crypt far below the Hollow Mountain (more on that another time). The recipe was Grey Seer undercoat > Basilicanum Grey contrast > Administratum Grey drybrush > White Scar drybrush.

I quite like the effect this creates, almost a ‘static’ or low light ‘night vision’ effect, like the only think you can see clearly is the glowing spectre as it drifts towards you, slowly reaching out a withered hand…


More from the Tallowlands

The Tallowlands is a joint project by my gaming group, the Plastic Crack Rehab Clinic (PCRC) to create our own little narrative corner of the Mortal Realms. If you’d like to read more about the Tallowlands or see some of the other forces being created to inhabit it, you can check out the Tallowlands blog here.

Darrakar and the Nightmare Lantern

Behold, mortals! Darrakar, Guardian of Souls is upon you! Fear his baleful Nightmare Lantern!


Darrakar is one of the two special limited edition models that were released for a short time to celebrate the recent opening of 500th Games Workshop store. A friend picked him up as a present for me, and as it’s such an awesome model I had to bump him up to the front of the painting/LED queue!

As I discuss in my design tutorial, I always think that the best LED miniatures are like magic tricks. If someone can look at the miniature and it’s not immediately obvious how it’s done, then that produces the best reaction. But, like a magic trick, if it’s super-obvious then it’s less impressive. If you can see the card up the magician’s sleeve – or in this case the wires and battery – then it won’t garner much more than a shrug.

So how was Darrakar’s lantern done? Essentially the basic principles can be found in LED Eye Lens Tutorial, although in this case I was working with a ghostly lantern instead of a Space Marine helmet! The image below shows the lantern switched off so everything can be seen a little more clearly.


The battery is in the base, as normal. The wires come up through a hole in the middle of the gravestone and then cling to the back of one of the wispy tails and from there run up into the torso. I didn’t try and drill the ethereal wisps. Instead, because they’re very thin wires, they’re glued to the back of the wisp and then further disguised with green stuff.

From there they run through the torso and up to the lantern arm. Darrakar’s original arm was too spindly to hide wires, so I essentially removed the arm and replaced it with the wires themselves. I then extended the sleeve of the shroud with green stuff to hide the wires – in this case the magician really did have something up his sleeve!

For the lantern, everything from the top of the flames downwards is a resin recast. I drilled a hole in this and inserted a green LED. I then cut away the handle of the lantern and made a new handle from the legs of the LED! These then connect to the wires just behind the hand.

So there we are, a little insight into the Guardian of Souls and his Nightmare Lantern. I’d encourage everyone to have a go at this themselves – the Nighthaunt model range are ripe for the use of ghostly green and blue LEDs!


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

Necromancer with Lantern

Contrary to what the rest of my blog might suggest, I’m not just interested in Space Marines…


Here’s my Necromancer, Wilhelm Von Lichenfels, with LED lantern, for my growing Age of Sigmar Grand Alliance Death army. When complete this army will be half Deathrattle – led by the Necromancer and a Wight King – and half Flesheater Courts. I’ll show more of the army on here at a later date.