“Revenge at the Farm” Crimson Fists ‘Armies on Parade’ 2021

Thirty-four years after the Warhammer 40,000 Rogue Trader introductory scenario “Battle at the Farm”, the Crimson Fists are back at the site of their infamous retreat for revenge – Primaris style! “Revenge at the Farm” is my entry for Games Workshop’s ‘Armies on Parade’ 2021 event. My entry to ‘Armies on Parade’ 2020 was quite simple, basically just a tiered hill to display the LED Crimson Fists that I’d completed so far. This time, I wanted to tell a bit more of a story!

Captain Grimstone of the Fourth Company oversees the purging of the ruined farmstead. Epistolary Gabriel, Crimson Fists Geokinetic, leads the Eradicators to secure the left flank.

“Purge the xenos! No survivors!” The Crimson Fists don’t have it all their own way though – kunnin’ kommandoes counter-attack from the treeline!

Hellblaster Squad Ordonéz provides covering fire from Bultha’s Rise. The Reivers home in on the red signal flares to secure the ruined generator.

Ancient Santec strides past the overgrown orchard and the ruins of the farmhouse. It looks like Thrugg Bullneck didn’t escape the original battle with his stolen loot. Perhaps the grot kommando will have more luck?

The farm – then and now. This is the map of the farm as shown in the Warhammer 40,000 first edition rulebook. I had to take some slight artistic license with the layout to accommodate the models in a pleasing way. For example, if the stone walls or ruined farmhouse were too tall then it would have obscured models behind. Similarly, I changed the contours of the hills to better display the units on that flank. I also “zoomed in” slightly on the map so I didn’t have a lot of ‘dead space’ behind the orchard. But overall I think it’s still recognisable as the same location.

That’s it for today, I hope you’ve enjoyed the pictures of my Crimson Fists and the display board. I’ll be back later in the week to take a closer look at some of the Orks who are not having a good day at the farm! As ever, please don’t forget that if you want to have a go at LED miniatures yourself then my tutorials are here and you can shop for the required tools and consumables here.

Kaptin Gron, Kommando Nob

I klawed my way to da top, hurr-hurr-hurr!

– Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob

Next from the Octarius Kommando Kill Team Orks we have Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob. This is a fantastic sculpt and originally I was going to leave it untouched. However I have been mulling over the idea of attempting to create an “crackling electrical surface discharge” effects with LEDs on a power fist or power klaw, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give it a whirl! I did also consider making the backpack radar dish rotate, but in the end decided that would be a little too much effort!

Painting & Assembling

So how did I make the crackling electrical discharge effect on the power klaw?

  1. I drilled through the model’s leg, torso and arm to add three Blue Ultra Nano SMD Chip LED (3V) from the website Small Scale Lights. They are all connected in parallel with a 3V coin cell battery, 10Ω resistor and switch in the base. For more information on hiding batteries in miniature bases, see my LED Eye Lens tutorial.
  2. Next I applied Water Splash Effect Gel, available from Green Stuff World, to begin creating the path of the electrical “arc”.
  3. Once the initial application of gel has dried – which may take several hours – I applied the next layer, increasing the length of the “arcs”.
  1. I continued to apply layers of gel until I was happy with the shape of the “arcs”. As you can see, I joined them up to make it look like the electricity was arcing between different points on the power klaw.
  2. Once the final layer of gel was dry, I applied a thin layer of Citadel Guilliman Blue glaze, just to make the electrical effect look a little more interesting when the LEDs are switched off. Unfortunately this colour is discontinued now, but a thinned-down coat of Citadel Contrast Talassar Blue would have the same effect.
  3. Jobs a good ‘un, boss!

I’m not sure if the crackling electrical discharge effect I was picturing in my head has fully translated to the model, but it was a fun experiment anyway! In terms of painting, I stuck to the retro-inspiring Blood Axe Kommando scheme I mentioned in my previous post. Even though Kaptain Gron is the leader of the team I still stuck to the limited colour palette. I think this helps to give the whole unit a more cohesive look on the tabletop.

That’s it for this week. More Octarius Orks soon, plus some more Badab campaign, Armies on Parade revisited and something a bit different! See you all again soon.

Gron’s Kommando Kill Team – Part 1

Az killy az a sack of Catachan Face Eaters, and twice az hard to catch!

Warboss Grimzod on Gron’s Kommandos.

For the past few weeks I’ve been working on the Ork Kommandos that came in the Kill Team Octarius boxed set. I’ve taken a narrative approach to this project and decided to base the team members on the characters in my Ork Kommando short story The Dark Stabba. Now I’m halfway through the ten Ork team this seems like a good time for a blog post!

Bomb Squig

The first model I tackled was the Bomb Squig, just because it’s such a cool miniature! I wanted to give the impression of burning fuses on the dynamite, just like in the Kill Team cinematic trailer. To achieve this I used the materials and techniques detailed in my LED Nighthaunt Candle tutorial to creating the fuses, only this time I used yellow glaze rather than green.

Snatchit, Kommando Grot

As soon as I saw the Grot I knew I had to give him proper glowing infrared goggles! I used two 3V Red Ultra Nano SMD Chip LEDs available from Small Scale Lights. The LEDs are wired in parallel with each other, then in series with their supplied 100Ω resistor. Rather than recast the head in resin as I often do for LED eyes, in this case I decided to drill out the eyes and fill in the lenses with the ubiquitous Splash Gel. This was mainly because I thought the very fine details of the tiny head might loose a bit too much definition during the recasting process.

Snikbad, Slasha Boy

There are no LEDs on the Slasha Boy, but it didn’t need any. The colour scheme is based on the classic Blood Axe Kommando colour scheme, as seen in my Kommando ‘proof of concept’ model post. As with all non-LED models in LED units, I’ve raised the top of his base slightly with modelling putty, as though there were a battery holder in the base. This is so he doesn’t look shorter than his comrades!

‘Eadrekka, Kommando Boy

This Kommando Boy uses my brand new technique for producing simple LED muzzle flares. Check out my new Simple LED Muzzle Flare tutorial if you’d like a full step-by-step guide.

Dakkagor, Dakka Boy

The Dakka Boy uses the same new Simple LED Muzzle Flare tutorial that I referenced above, except that I used three LEDs of the same type instead of one! The three LEDs all share the same connections and the same battery. The three LEDs are wired in parallel with each other, but then still in series with the resistor, battery and switch.

That’s it for this week, I hope you’ve all found that interesting. I’m really enjoying painting the rag-tag Orks as a nice change of pace from neat power armour. Hopefully I’ll be back again soon with Gron’s Kommando Kill Team – Part 2!

Another Terradon Rider Complete

I’m back on the Seraphon this weekend as I try to clear some room on the ‘Shelf of Shame’ before the Kill Team: Octarius boxed set is delivered.

Assembling & Painting

I don’t have a great deal new to say about this one, as I’ve used exactly the same assembling and painting technique that I detailed in my Terradon Rider Alpha post. It’s still the two ‘0805 Chip LED’ 3V yellow LEDs from Small Scale Lights connected in parallel on a single 3V CR2032 battery to create the effect. If you’d like to know more details, then please do read the previous post for assembly instructions and paint recipe. The only real difference this time is that the skink’s right hand pinged off into whichever part of the warp dropped model components lurk in, so I had to sculpt a replacement from putty!

Actually, one tip I will add is that I’ve found it easiest to approach this particular build if you assemble the model in the order that the wire runs through, starting with the sunfire bolas, going onto the skink, then the terradon, and finally the base. The instructions tell you to start with the terradon, which would make sense normally, but in this case it leaves you second-guessing where the wires are going to end up. So if you’re trying to replicate this, I strongly recommend starting with the bolas and the skink!

That’s all for today, I’ll be back again soon with some Octarius action – delivery services willing!

LED Miniature Makers of Instagram

I passed the 10,000 followers milestone on my hobby Instagram recently, which was a pleasant surprise. But it got me thinking about other LED miniature makers who deserve an equal amount of love! So I thought this would be a good opportunity to uplift and celebrate some other members of the Instagram LED miniature community. Embedded below are some of my favourites, presented in no particular order. Why not take a few minutes to check out their work, and if you like what you see then give them a follow!

light_em_up_minis

Warhammer 40K T’au Empire

doc.brown_miniatures

Warhammer 40K Necrons

leelilum

Gundam & Warhammer 40K

technicalrunnerd

Warhammer 40K Chaos

grimdark_illuminations

Warhammer 40K Necrons

warhammer_40K_bahrain

Warhammer 40K

mek_with_screwdriver

Warhammer 40K Orks

dako.studios

Star Wars Legion & Lord of the Rings

dak_rogan

Star Wars Legion

techmagos_binary

Warhammer 40K Imperium

boboshobby

Warhammer 40K Scenery

That’s just a small sample of the great work that you can find out there. Many apologies if I follow your LED work on Instagram and I’ve missed you out, it wasn’t intentional! If you have any suggestions for other great LED miniature artists that I’ve not mentioned above, please let me know in the comments. If this has inspired you and you’d like to have a go at making some LED miniatures yourself then you can find my tutorials here and supplies here. That’s all for today, see you again soon!