Genestealer Cult Nexos

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Do the unbelievers think that being surrounded by hostile blips just happens? No! It takes skill and dedication to have our brethren coming out of the goddamn walls!

– Kelbrech, Genestealer Nexos

The Genestealer Nexos is a model that I’ve been keen to give the LED treatment since the day it was released. Actually, since before it was released, as this was the one-and-only time I’ve correctly guessed an upcoming model from a Rumour Engine preview (fun fact, the Nexos design is based on an unreleased Genestealer Cult model from the early 90s)!


Nexos LED Hololith

So how was it done? I mostly followed the process detailed in my own LED Hololith tutorial, but with a few differences. I’ve detailed the important changes below.

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1. Rather than resin cast a small section, I found it easier to simply recast the whole top of the hololith map table in resin. If you’d like to know more about resin casting for LED effects, take a look at my tutorial here.

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2. I drilled a number of 4mm holes in the underside of the resin cast to allow the LED to sit snuggly in the component and to ensure the resin was thin enough to allow the light to shine through. This needs to be done slowly and carefully to ensure you don’t accidentally drill all the way through! If you do drill all the way through, then I’m afraid you’ll need to make another cast.

You can see in the image above that I drilled seven holes. This was just as result of my experiments to find the best position for the LEDs in relation to the detail on the map. You only actually need to drill one hole for each LED.

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3. Next I inserted my three LEDs, holding them in place with tiny dots of superglue on the side. At this stage it was important to ensure the legs of LEDs all had the same polarity on the same side, as this makes connecting them easier later. I used TruOpto 1.8mm red LEDs instead of the nano chip LEDs I specify in my hololith tutorial. This is because I wanted a slightly greater brightness and a larger angle of dispersion for the light, plus I had more room to play with on this project.

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4. Next I drilled holes in the plastic base of the hololith map table to allow the LED legs to pass through.

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5. I glued the top and bottom halves of the hololith table together, filling in the very slight gap around the edge with modelling putty. Then I trimmed off the excess length on the legs of the LEDs and wired them together in parallel. Then I attached two trailing leads which will connect the table to the base.

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6. Next I used modelling putty to hide the soldered connections of the LED legs. The putty looks a bit rough in the above image, but I tidied it up later, adding detail so it just looked like part of the machinery of the table.

I removed the plastic ‘wires’ that connect the table to the plastic ‘power pack’ on the model and replaced them with the actual wires. The wires pass out of a hole I drilled in the bottom of the plastic power pack and connect to the switch and battery under the base.

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7. Next I glued the plastic power pack into position and then hid the wires with the base texture material that I use. This texture material is pumice paste, but PVA and sand or any other texture material will also work.

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8. I covered the actual map with a lump of blu-tack and then undercoated and painted the model.

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9. Finally I applied a very thinned down coat of Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. I was careful to avoid pooling on flat surfaces and to keep the contrast paint in the recesses as much as possible. This is stage is just to give the map detail some definition and make the model look better when the LED is switched off, and shouldn’t actually effect the final brightness.

I’m sure a lot of people know about this fun Easter Egg, but in case you don’t, the hololith map actually shows an aerial view of Warhammer World!

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That’s it for this week, I hope you found all that informative. Revisiting my Genestealer Cult has reminded me that I could do with some group shots of the Cult of Celestial Wisdom, so perhaps that’s something I’ll get around to soon. Please don’t forget that if you’re interested in following my work then you can also find me on Instagram and Twitter where I give regular updates on my various projects.

Goliath Truck with Headlights and Muzzle Flare Stubber

I’ve been working on this Genestealer Cults Goliath Truck for the past couple of weeks, and now it’s finally complete. After painting so many single Space Marine miniatures, this large model was a shock to the system, even if it is essentially the same colours…

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Compared to my Crimson Fists, my Genestealer Cult have relative few LEDs. Well, it may not seem like it when you consider the Patriarch, the Magus and the functioning Mining Laser, but they’re certainly not in every squad. I just wanted to keep it simple for the Goliath Truck, so I limited myself to working headlights and a muzzle flare for the heavy stubber.

In terms of the muzzle flare, I’m (slowly but surely) working on a full tutorial, which will appear in my tutorial section in a couple of weeks. LED vehicle headlights are common conversions, and there are plenty of off-the-shelf kits out there, so it’s probably not worth a full tutorial. I’ll just give a quick summary in this post instead.

First I drilled and cut out the recessed headlights section on the right, leaving the frame around it for support. Then I cut out a thin sheet of plastic card and drilled two holes in it that were large enough to accommodate the LEDs. I took the row of four plastic headlights from the Goliath sprue (these are the ones that normally sit on top of the dozer blade on the Rockgrinder variant) and recast two of them in resin. Then it was simply a case of gluing the recast headlights over the plastic card holes, and mounting the plastic card in the recess where the original plastic headlights had previously been.

Finally I drilled two holes in the back of the resin headlights so the LEDs would sit comfortably inside them and shine through the resin, creating the above effect. The two LEDs were simply wired-up in parallel to a 3V coin cell battery holder and switch hidden in the body of the Goliath. The LEDs were TruOpto 1.8mm White High Power LEDs. I left the front section removable so I could get to the battery and the switch.

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The muzzle flare used a 3V Amber chip LED from Small Scale Lights, combined with a custom cast resin muzzle flare shape of my own design. I’ve only started using this LED supplier recently, so they aren’t mentioned anywhere else in my tutorials, but I’ve been very impressed with their range and customer service so far. I think they’re likely to become my main LED supplier in future.

I’ll be talking more about chip LEDs and exactly how to use them to create muzzle flares in my upcoming tutorial, but if you don’t want to wait and think you can join the dots yourself then take a look at the links in the paragraph above and give Small Scale Lights some business.

When it came to the rust and corrosion on the Goliath, I was aiming for a look that suggested ‘this has been used for industrial purposes’ rather than a ‘broken and neglected’ appearance, so hopefully I didn’t overdo it. I did a Google Image search for “industrial truck corrosion” as reference, and then tried to imagine where on the Goliath the corrosion was likely to occur. The answer seems to be anywhere that precipitation might pool, or where mud or dirt might be thrown or accumulate during everyday operation. I used GW’s Typhus Corrosion, followed by a Ryza Rust drybrush for this. It’s quick and easy and actually quite good fun to do. I’m a big fan of GW’s technical paint range, they are definitely worth checking out.

That’s it for today, I hope you found that interesting! Now it’s time to get back to working on that muzzle flare tutorial…

Genestealer Hybrid with Functioning Laser

I’m not quite done with my Genestealer Cult yet. Here’s something a little different from my normal LED miniatures – a miniature with a functioning laser!

This is a concept I’ve been meaning to revisit for some time. I made a Space Marine with a lascannon built around small laser diode about five years ago. I won’t share it here there, as the laser was quite bulky and it didn’t look great. I’ve always felt I could do better – and now I have!

Genestealer Hybrid with Laser

So how was this done? Well I’m a little cautious about doing a full tutorial for this one, if I’m honest. In my day job I’m a Laser Safety Officer, so it doesn’t seem right to be encouraging people to go out and play with lasers! The laser diode that it’s built around (the brass cylinder in the WIP picture below) is Class 3R and has an output of 5 milliwatts (mW). This is basically as powerful as it can be while still being appropriate for everyday use. So if you do decide to try and replicate this, please exercise a bit of caution, and don’t expose your eyes to the direct beam!

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The basic principle of the design is the same as for my LED plasma weapons – a battery in the base, and an optoelectronic device hidden in the weapon, only in this case it’s a laser diode module, not an LED.

You can source 3V 5mW laser diodes similar to this from many electronics suppliers, or simply from eBay. A word of caution though, when sourcing laser diodes I recommend purchasing from a supplier in the UK or Europe. It’s not uncommon for laser diodes imported from elsewhere in the world to be mislabeled in terms of their power output, whether that’s more power or less power. Neither is a good thing for this project!

Once you have the laser diode, it’s simply a case of drilling out the plastic barrel of the laser weapon, carefully gluing it to the front of the diode (don’t get any glue on the diode lens!), and then using green stuff to bulk out the shape of the laser. You’ll the power cord that runs from the mining laser to the backpack are the actual power connections of the laser diode. Sometimes things are best hidden in plain sight! The wires then run down through the backpack, through one of the legs and to the battery in the base, as per the LED plasma weapon tutorial.

So there we have it. I hope you found that insight into miniature laser weapons interesting. Whether or not your Hybrids with mining lasers have line-of-sight to their target will never be in question again!

 

Bristol Vanguard ‘Spoils of War’ Campaign Weekend

I’ve just returned from Bristol Vanguard’s ‘Spoils of War’ Warhammer 40,000 campaign weekend, hosted at Bristol Independent Gaming. This is the second Bristol Vanguard-run event that I’ve attended, and I would definitely attend a third. The games are well organised, story driven and the atmosphere is very chilled. The venue is great too – I’d never visited B.I.G before but I was impressed, especially with the tables and scenery which were all good quality and nicely themed. The attached store offers 10% off RRP on all purchases too.

The plot of the campaign weekend was themed around a Tyranid incursion into the Eastern Fringe, so all of the PCRC took Tyranid or Genestealer Cult armies. I had originally planned to go pure Cult, but failure to paint everything in time meant I had to blow the dust off my retro Tyranids as reinforcements for the first time in 8th edition. I really enjoyed using the Tyranid force with their “new” codex, although did feel that the Genestealer Cult battalion suffered slightly when I used it as a standalone force in the doubles games. Being one of the last Index armies with access to very few stratagems can be a bit painful when going up against full Codex lists!

Additional photography courtesy of Graham Gilchrist.

I may not have won many of the actual games, but I was really pleased to pick up the ‘Best Painted Character’ trophy for my Genestealer Magus! Thanks very much to everyone who voted for me.

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So all-in-all a very enjoyable weekend! Hopefully we’ll make it back again next year.

Genestealer Patriarch

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The Celestial Father whispers from the shadows directly into the minds of his children, sharing secrets that would drive unbelievers mad. The Galaxy is doomed, and only those in the Cult of Cosmic Wisdom have the strength of purpose to be consumed and born anew by the Hungering Gods.

Another addition to my growing Genestealer Cult! Say hello to the Celestial Father, the Patriarch of the Cult of Cosmic Wisdom (if you haven’t already seen him on my Instagram on Saturday that is).

As I mentioned before while talking about my Magus, I don’t want to have too many LEDs in the GSC army, which is just as well as this guy took about two weeks of evenings to build and another two weeks to get a paint job that I was happy with! I had a bit of a crisis of faith halfway through as it just didn’t look right. The problem was that I had the brain area directly behind the eyes glowing, which took the focus away from the eyes themselves. But once I’d added some more paint in to restrict the brain glow it looked good again. I’m very pleased with the final result.

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This model was especially tricky as, since the head is integral to the body piece, I had to razor-saw off the whole head and shoulder for resin casting! The whole processes added an extra hour or so to the build time.

If you’re wondering why I went for a yellow LED, as opposed to the blue of the Magus, it was for the following reasons:

  • “Modern” Patriarch artwork tend to have yellow glowing brains and eyes (if they are pictured using their psychic powers), as opposed to the blue that the Magus’ are often pictured with.
  • I wanted to differentiate between the half-human nature of the Magus and the entirely alien Patriarch. Blue is a very “Human” (and Eldar) psychic power colour. Yellow I hope indicates that the Patriarch is exhibiting very different powers to his high priest.

Below you can see what that Celestial Father looks like with the LED switched off. Hopefully this allows a clearer view of the paint job. Stay tuned for more Genestealer Cult models in a week or two.

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