Red Gobbo & Bounca

A Merry Squigmass to all, and to all a good fight!

Red Gobbo

One final model for 2022, ‘Red Gobbo & Bounca‘. I received this kit as a Christmas present from a good friend this time last year, and it has been sitting on the Shelf of Shame ever since, waiting for the holiday season to roll around again. This model won’t be joining any army projects, it’s simply a fun festive display piece.

Modelling & Painting

This was a record for me in terms of number of LEDs on a single infantry-sized model, seven in all. It was originally eight – there was an additional red light on the end of the fairy light string – but the connection for the eighth LED became damaged during installation. Despite my best efforts I couldn’t seem to fix it so I decided to cut my losses – literally – and snip the failed LED from the end of the string.

I had to work quite quickly on this project in order to get it done, photographed and shared by today. I didn’t want it to sit on the shelf for another year! So that’s why there aren’t many ‘work in progress’ pictures – I couldn’t spare the time to stop and take them. But I did capture this picture of the wiring shown above. It might look complex, but the design is a fairly basic circuit. Every LED is in series with a single resistor, and every LED and resistor pair are connected in parallel with all the other pairs. The entire circuit is driven from a single coin cell battery and switch under the base. Essentially it is my Simple Muzzle Flare tutorial, but with the LED and resistor repeated multiple times in parallel.

If you are trying to reproduce this then a useful tip I found was to paint a dot of colour on each of the resistors to remind me which colour LEDs they were supposed to connect to, since different colour LEDs have different resistor requirements. This was easier than looking on the tiny resistor colour code rings or testing with a multimeter each time. You can see these spots if you look carefully in the image above. This photo was taken just before the wires were coiled up above the resistors and covered in a thin layer of modelling putty to hold them in place.

When it came to positioning the LEDs on the model, I tried to replace the sculpted plastic lights with real LEDs on a one-for-one basis, which I largely achieved. Thankfully I didn’t have to spend a lot of time hiding the wires, as there were already sculpted wires on show as part of the model, so I left the actual wires on show and then painted over them. The LEDs that formed part of the fairly lights were secured with a small blob of glue from a hot glue gun. When dry, the transparent glue also acted as the ‘bulb’ of the light. However I stuck to my normal acrylic gel method when sculpting the fuse on the dynamite.

For the paint scheme, I followed my recent Ork-related paint schemes found in this article. The snow on the base was from a tub of ‘Citadel Snow’ that I’ve had hanging around since about 2009. Once I had hidden the wire under the putty on the base, I painted the putty Fenrisian Grey, which is a cool, light blue-grey. Next I gave it a heavy Corax White drybrush. Finally I applied a thick coat of PVA and the Citadel Snow, which is basically a fine white flock.

So there we have it, a small but intricate model! I’m quite pleased with how this turned out, but if I could go back again with a bit more time I’d probably take more care on the fairy lights to make them neater, and also add some more layers to the highlights on the squig hide. Those are only minor gripes though, and as I said overall I’m pleased with the finished miniature.

So that’s it for this week, I hope you’ve enjoyed this fun festive figure! As always, thanks very much for reading, and please don’t forget you can also follow my work on social media at TwitterMastodon and Instagram. Merry Christmas everyone!

Goff Rocker, Ork Musician

‘Ere we go, ‘ere we go, dakka all the way!

The Goff Rocker

When I first saw the Goff Rocker, I knew I’d have to add it to my collection eventually. The model is just so full of character, I love the call back to the classic Goff Rockers miniatures, and the awesome tie-in Christmas song just sealed the deal!

Modelling & Painting

I didn’t make any serious alterations to the model itself, other than giving his bionik eye the LED treatment. To achieve this I used the same technique as for my Eradicator sergeant’s bionic eye, including the 3V red ultra nano SMD chip LED. The metal stage texture is from a very old Games Workshop battlefield accessories sprue that has been languishing in my spares box for years. Originally it was a large square pallet for stacking ammo crates up, but I cut, filed and sanded it down into a circle.

My first “draft” of the base was a 50mm circular base with LED fire pyrotechnic effects on each side. But I decided it dominated the actual miniature too much, and revised it down to 40mm, which is the base size that the model is supplied with. I also swapped out the fire for two stage footlights, one in purple and one in blue. This change took it closer to the light artwork painted on the base of the box art model, and of course following the existing artwork is one of my key design philosphies when using LEDs in miniatures.

The stage footlights were made from small comms speakers, again taken from a battlefield terrain sprue, drilled out, and with more 3V SMD chip LEDs inserted, one in blue and one in white, as I didn’t have any purple LEDs in this size. To finish off the footlights, I filled them with acrylic gel and once it had dried glazed them with blue and purple glazes respectively.

When it came to painting, I followed the “offical” scheme fairly closely. The majority of the colour choices came from the WarhammerTV Citadel Colour masterclass painting tutorial for this model. The only exceptions were the ork skin and the squig hide. I used my own recipe for these to match other recent ork models in my collection, such as the Kommando Kill Team (the skin and hide receipes are in this linked article for anyone interested).

That’s it for this week, I hope you enjoyed this detour into greenskin territory! If you’d like to see more of my orks, search the ‘ork’ category on this site. Also, don’t forget to stream and download the Goff Rocker song and who knows, maybe we can get it to Christmas number one in the UK! As always, thanks very much for reading, and please don’t forget you can also follow my work on social media at TwitterMastodon and Instagram.

Gron’s Kommando Kill Team – Part 2

I don’t like to ‘ave more boyz than I ‘ave fingers. Makes it ‘ard to keep track of da sneaky gitz!

Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob

At last I’ve finished the Ork Kommando Kill Team, only seven months after picking up the Octarius boxed set! It’s very satisfying to finish a project, and to clear part of the “Shelf of Shame”. Part One of this project – looking at the first half of the Kill Team – can be found here. Gron and his boyz are based on the characters that appear in my short story ‘The Dark Stabba‘ on Cold Open Stories. At the start of this project I’d only pictured maybe six or seven of the models in this set having LEDs, but once I got going I kept seeing more and more opportunities for illumination. In the end only a single miniature didn’t get the LED treatment.

Kaptain Gron, Kommando Nob

Kaptain Gron, the illustrious Nob of Gron’s Kommando Boyz, sports a power klaw crackling with barely contained energy. I used three blue LEDs and acrylic gel to create the lightning effect on the klaw. You can read more about the creation of the Kaptain Gron model here.

“Krumpa” Zog, Kommando Breacha

“Krumpa” Zog is the team’s breacha. For this model I used two yellow SMD chip LEDs to create the bullet ricochet effect on his armour and the ruins on his base. You can read more about how “Krumpa” Zog was made here.

Dregshak, Kommando Rokkit Boy

Dregshak is the team’s Rokkit Boy and demolitions expert. As long as he gets to blow something up, Dregshak considers it a successful mission, regardless of any other outcomes! You can read more about how Dregshak was created here, and a full photo tutorial on how to recreate the “LED Rocket Launcher” effect on my LED Miniature Tutorials page here.

Rotkop, Kommando Comms Boy

Rotkop is the team’s Comms Boy and electronic know-wots expert. He handles all the “tek-nee-cal” problems on the mission that Gron is far too busy and important to concern himself with. You can read more about Rotkop and his LED shokka pistol here.

Slagskraga, Kommando Burna Boy

Slagskraga likes fire a little too much, and he love to share that passion with any ‘Umies that cross his path. You can read about Slagskraga and his LED burna here.

Painting

As I always say when I discuss my painting recipes, this is partially so people can see how I painted my models and duplicate it if they like the colour scheme, and partially as a record for myself if I ever revisit the project! I’ve mentioned in a previous post why I chose these particular colours. All paints are Citadel unless stated otherwise, and applied over a grey undercoat.

Red Fatigues

  • Mephiston Red base coat
  • Agrax Earthshade shade
  • Evil Sun Scarlet highlight
  • Wild Rider Red fine highlight

Grey Webbing

  • Mechanicus Standard Grey base coat
  • Nuln Oil shade
  • Dawnstone highlight
  • Administratum Grey fine hightlight

Khaki Packs

  • Zandri Dust base coat
  • Agrax Earthshade shade
  • Tallarn Sand highlight
  • Screaming Skull fine highlight

Brown Leather

  • 50:50 Rhinox Hide/Doombull Brown base
  • Agrax Earthshade
  • Doombull Brown layer
  • Skrag Brown highlight
  • Tallarn Sand fine hightlight

Squig Skin / Battery Packs

  • Khorne Red
  • Nuln Oil shade
  • Wazdakka Red highlight
  • Wild Rider Red fine highlight

Ork & Squig Teeth

  • Rakarth Flesh base
  • Reikland Fleshshade shade
  • Pallid Wych Flesh highlight
  • White Scar fine highlight

White Masks

  • Corax White base
  • Nuln Oil shade
  • White Scar highlight

Ork Skin

  • Waaagh! Flesh base
  • Biel-Tan Green shade
  • 50:50 Waaagh! Flesh / Warboss Green layer
  • Warboss Green highlight
  • Skarsnik Green highlight
  • 50:50 Skarsnik Green / Emperor’s Children highlight (on prominent scars only, e.g. Burna Boy)

There we go, another project done and dusted! I hope you’ve all enjoyed seeing the progress of this Kill Team over the last few months. That’s all for today, and enough Orks for the moment. See you again soon for something a little different!

Kommando ‘Burna Boy’

Wot’s yellow an’ sayz “Help, I’m a ‘Umie and I’m on fire!”…? Err, hang on, I fink I told it wrong…

Slagskraga, Kommando Burna Boy

At last, the final Octarius Ork Kommando is complete, only around seven months after buying the box! I didn’t leave the Burna Boy until last for any conscious reason. I think it was just that I was more inspired by the other models and the effects I had planned, many of which were experimenting with new techniques, whereas I had a “safe” plan for the Burna Boy that fell back on tried-and-tested techniques.

Having finished the model, I do wish I’d got to it sooner. After spending a lot of time looking at it, I think it’s one of the most characterful models in the Kommando set. I particularly like the little details like the burn scars on its hands and arms, and the fuel pressure gauge on the burna.

Design, Building & Painting

To create the LED effects on the Burna Boy I primarily I used the techniques described in my ‘Simple LED Muzzle Flare tutorial‘, which can be found on my LED Miniatures Tutorials page. The main difference is that I used two of the yellow 0805 SMD chip LEDs instead of one. Both were connected in parallel to the single coin cell battery in the base.

In the left-hand image above you can see how the LEDs were arranged on the nozzle of the burna. In hindsight I should have positioned the top LED slightly lower down. I was hoping their respective glows would ‘merge’ to create a larger overall light once I’d applied the flame effect. But in the end they were slightly too far apart. The right-hand image above shows the path of the LED wires in this particular model – through the burna, up the left arm, through the torso and down through the left leg.

As you can see in the left-hand image above, I painted the red and black connecting wires of the LED yellow to help them blend into the final flame effect. The right-hand images shows the flame effect after I applied paint. I began with a shade of Citadel Fuegan Orange over the entire flame. Once this had dried I applied a yellow glaze of Citadel Lamenters Yellow (alternatively, a 1:4 glaze of Yriel Yellow to Lahmian Medium will work). Next I applied a shade of Citadel Druchii Violet to the top third of the flame only. Finally I applied a red glaze of Citadel Bloodletter Red (alternatively, a 1:4 glaze of Evil Sun Scarlet to Lahmian Medium will work) just to the top third. This is more for the looks of the flame when the LEDs are switched off. When the LEDs are on the distinction is harder to see.

That’s all for today. It’s very satisfying to actually finish a project and have all the Kommandos done! Check back again soon for some group pictures of Kaptain Gron and his Kommando Boyz. Don’t forget you can also follow my work on Twitter and Instagram.

Kommando ‘Comms Boy’

Yooz might find dis order a bit…shokkin’!

Rotkop, Kommando Comms Boy

When I started assembling the Kommando Comms Boy, I thought this was going to be a model without any LEDs. <pause for audience laugh> However just as I finished gluing it together, I realised there was a giant light bulb on the side of his shokka pistol! I couldn’t let that go unmodified, so I dutifully took the miniature apart and began to plan how to replace the plastic light bulb with a functioning LED.

Design & Building

The LED process was fairly simple by my standards. I cut the bulb from the shokka pistol with a sharp craft knife, and then used a 1mm drill bit to drill out the “glass” parts of the bulb, leaving the “metal” guard around it. I then inserted a 3V red ultra nano SMD chip LED where the bulb was, running the wire down through the pistol, right arm, torso and leg to the battery in the base. Once the LED was in place I returned the “metal” guard to cover it – as shown in the image above – and filled in the gaps between the guard with Water Splash Effect Gel (available from Green Stuff World) to provide a transparent replacement for the “glass” in the bulb. Finally, once the gel was dry I applied a shade of Citadel Spiritstone Red. This ‘Technical’ paint is like a thick, glossy glaze, and helps the gel to look like red glass when the LED is switched off. 

If you’d like to have a go at this yourself but you’d like more details, I’m afraid I don’t have a full tutorial for this technique at the moment. But the existing tutorial that is closest is my ‘Simple LED Muzzle Flare‘ tutorial, only with the red ultra nano SMD chip LED mentioned above, instead of the yellow 0805 chip LED shown in the tutorial.

That’s all for this week. Thanks for reading, and hopefully see you again soon for the tenth and final Kommando in the Octarius Kill Team!